This last Labor Day Weekend the waves were 15ft+ at The Wedge. My buddy Zac and I went to the beach each day at 530am to beat the crowd and get parking. When we got there, a news crew had already set up and had their cameras rolling. The temptation to get in their shot and act like a kook was high but I’d rather watch the waves and get film loaded.
The swell was a little over hyped by the news, the waves weren’t as big as I thought, but it was still firing. The conditions were super clean, surfers like Pat Towersey, Tommy Cantrell, and even pro Wiggolly Dantas were out there getting clean in and out rides. The vibe in the water was super mellow and everyone was having a blast. Sometimes when Wedge is big and the side wave is working some people don’t check to see if they’re dropping in on someone or not. Didn’t really see that many pissed off faces that weekend, it’s hard to be angry when you’re getting clean barrels and riding out of them all the way to Cylinders.
I was shooting on my trusty Nikonos III and using some expired Kodak Royal film. The local camera lab I go to was selling the film for $3 a roll, which is a steal for a 36-exposure roll. The lady that previously owned the film had kept it refrigerated so the film was still good. I was still nervous about how the shots would turn out though because sometimes expired film is so grainy that you can’t even see your subject. After getting the roll developed, I was surprised to see how good the film actually looked, the tones were just right. Here’s some images from the 3 rolls I shot that weekend.